Turistas in the Heart of the Aztec Universe

5-16-07

Return to the zocalo for sightseeing.

1. Palacio Nacional (http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palacio_Nacional). Diego Rivera’s Murals. Free Admittance. We eavesdrop on some paid tours.

2. Templo Mayor. Free admittance for students. Some archaeologists are examining the lower part of the pyramid. A path leads through the pyramid unearthed in the ‘70s. From behind the crumbling lava rock, the cathedral rises high above the zocalo. Crouch and close one eye, depth perception vanishes. The dark façade of the Christian edifice rises from the pyramid as if they were one. Ironic. Spaniards built the cathedral mostly from materials stripped from the once great Templo Mayor at the center of the Aztec universe. The grounds also contain an amazing two-towered museum, which represents the two pyramids that once stood over the location (the temple devoted to Tlaloc god of water, and the temple devoted to Huitzilopochtli god of war). (http://archaeology.asu.edu/tm/index2.htm)

3. Suprema Corte de Justica (http://200.38.86.53/PortalSCJN/). Free Admittance. All office doors are open. The openness of the administrative process was a surprise considering the number of Mexican dissidents who protest the various injustices in the country:
from the socialist PRD and former-mayor Obrador camping out in the zocalo (http://blog.washingtonpost.com/mexicovotes/2006/08/down_but_not_out_in_mexico_cit_1.html),
to the APPO and last year’s riots in Oaxaca (http://auto_sol.tao.ca/node/view/2408),
to the Zapatistas and subcommandante Marcos in Chiappas (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zapatista_Army_of_National_Liberation).

The building contains a collection of portraits of justices dating back to Spanish rule. The paintings also exhibit the various shifts in painting styles throughout the years, especially in the 20th centry, which even includes a set of abstract (almost cubist) portraits. The building also played host to an array of murals. And, on opposite walls near the entrance, two naked blonde white women recline under enormous breasts exposed.

The word “fuckable” comes to mind as I view the women’s perfectly painted curves. Standing in Mexico’s highest court, I can’t help but recall all the instances (referenced in the history portion of my Let’s Go guide) where the Mexican legal system got fucked.

Moctezuma, the last ruler of the Aztecs, thought Cortez the prohesized Quetzecoatl – the plumed serpent, a war god returned to rule Mexico. Moctezuma greeted Cortez and the conquistadors with gifts of gold. The Spaniards proceeded to imprison the Aztec king, conquer the people and spread disease through the land (hence the namesake for traveler’s diahea).

The rebellions of the 19th century tell of the nation’s struggle for identity. Mexico usurped Spanish rule in 1821 to establish the First Mexican Empire, followed by more political turmoil, a war with the US, the loss of northern territories, French invasion in the 1860s, and more revolution and turmoil.

According to groups like the EZLN, Questionable justice continues today as peoples struggle for their rights in the Chiapas.

Nevertheless, one might say that justice is fucked in any country. The female representation of justice in the United States also has an attractive figure. She too is quite “fuckable,” and what’s more, she’s blind.

After finishing a tour of the court, we saw more murals scattered through rooms and stairwells. At the top of one stairwell. a large artwork showed a dim stone pit.

A woman lay at the bottom of the pit - naked, blonde, limbs sprawled, tits in the dirt.

4. Museo de la Ciudad de Mexico. Free on Wednesdays. Joaquin Clausell’s (http://www.conservapedia.com/Joaquin_Clausell) studio upstairs contains a windowless room plastered with a montage of women, crucifixes and ghostlike horses. In the museum, there is an interesting display about Superbarrio man (http://hemi.nyu.edu/journal/1_1/sb11.html), a caped-luchadore (Mexican wrestler) in advertisements along with Wonder Woman and Batman.

On the second floor, I feel some tacos rumbling inside my stomach. I rush to “el bano.” I don’t notice that it’s for employee’s only. Joyce’s voice echoes after I find a seat, “Um Doug, there’s a woman here, she says you can’t go there.” I exit to find a different restroom. I try to apologize to the security guard. She laughs at me. I think I say “lo siento, (I’m sorry)” but maybe I say “lo sento (I sit it).”

5. Catedral Metropolitana. Free admittance. Huge. Beautiful. Catholics worship and tourists snap photos. Once outside again, stalls and merchants line the cathedral’s fence. The setting reminds me of the synagogues Jesus disrupted in the New Testament. Alongside the vendors, beggars beg and indigenous witch doctors peddle blessings and curses, potions. A scantily clad man dons his wild-feathered helmet and chants as he bathes passersby for a tip.

We head back to the subway station. We try to avoid the ever-present swarm of green taxis eager to flatten any unwary tourist. We return to the house of friends poorer by only 38 pesos or $3.8 USD (two taco plates and 4 metro tickets). What a bargain.